Columbus was an Expat

Columbus may be a controversial figure in the US, but here he is the favorite son.  There are more statues, memorials, and references to Columbus per square kilometer that any other historical personage.  This is actually a pretty dramatic statement since this is a city of statues, memorials and plaques, most to people I've never heard of before.

So what do we actually know about Columbus's life in Genova?  Well, the answer is, not much.  In part because he didn't live here long and in part because he was a non-entity here.  Born to a family of wool weavers, Columbus had to become an expatriate to seek his fame and fortune as so many Genovese did before and after him.

This house is claimed by the city to be the birthplace of Columbus and there is some evidence to suggest this was in fact his home at one point.  Partially destroyed by French naval bombardment in 1684, the house was successfully reconstructed sometime in the 1700's.  The French were annoyed at Genova's alliance with Spain.

Next to the house, lie the exquisite ruins of the Cloister of St. Andrea.  Built in the 12th Century, it is nestled in a small olive grove.  The columns are topped with carvings of dragons, gryphons, deer and acanthus flowers.

And then the Porta Soprana.  One of the two remaining medieval city gates, these towers sit on a hill dominating the modern Piazza Dante.  Built between 1155 and 1159, they were built to defend the city against the incursions of Barbarossa (Redbeard).  What is particularly interesting about these gates is the construction.  This photo was taken from the outside of what was then the city.  Here, the towers are round in order repel invaders on ladders.   But on the inside of the city, the towers are flat consistent with the other buildings.

Walking through the gates as Columbus must have done as a child, we enter the Sestiere del Molo and the beginning of the medieval city.  From here the piazza branches off into the Vicos, or small streets and alleys that form the mysterious center.

From it's style we can see that this shrine was built hundreds of years after the construction of the gates.

But what about Columbus and his relationship to the city of his birth?  He made no reference in his writings to his youth in Genova  even though he lived in the city from circa 1450 to sometime in the 1470's.  But Genova made it's mark on him even though he lived most of his life in Spain.  It was from Genova that he learned mapmaking, a skill the Genovese were renowned for.  We also know that his desire to find a new way to the east wasn't driven by a quest for gold, but for a new path to reclaim Jerusalem from the Muslims.  This was an old Genovese dream.   Remember the Crusades were launched from this city.   It was from Genova that Columbus brought slavery to the new world, and the horrendous cruelty that went with it.  The one place where we see that Columbus had a deep connection to his birthplace is a letter written to the Casa di San Giorgio in 1502.  In this letter he states that even though his body traveled, his heart remained in Genova.  He wanted 1/10th of his income from the New World to go to reduce the taxes on the people of the city for their grain and wine.  This never happened, but we don't know if he had a change of heart since their is no mention of this bequest in his will.

The discovery of America is deeply ingrained in the Genovese psyche as evidenced by this sign in Piazza Corvetto.

This is a solar clock on the wall of Castello d'Albertis dedicated to Columbus and the discovery of America.

And once again, the most impressive monument is this one in the Piazza Aquaverde of Stazione Prinicipe, one of Genova's 2 main train stations.