Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Adaptations 1

 First let me say that Ollie just blew up my brand new Bialetti cafettiere.  Brand new in that it has, or was, never used.  How does one do that?  This is not hi-tech.  In fact, the Bialetti, which by the way makes the best coffee in the world, is about as low tech as you can get.  But apparently, where there's a will there's a way.

 
In theory, that black thing on the stove is supposed to be attached to the pot, not to mention the black thing on the top which is supposed to be standing up-right.  And the smell...well, I will not describe the smell!


But that's not what I wanted to write about today.  I wanted to write about food.  I think a lot about food.  Not only because I like to eat, but because you have to learn a whole new way of looking at food when you move to a new country.  Familiar products are absent and the ones you think are familiar turn out to be quite different.  Sometimes dramatically so.  Take for example peperoni.  Every American is familiar with peperoni, after all, what's life without the occasional peperoni pizza.  Except in Italy, peperoni are not spicy dried sausages, but fresh peppers, what we'd call in the US red bell peppers.  To make matters worse, there doesn't appear to be a dried sausage similar to peperoni, at least not here in Liguria.   Ok, there's no peperoni, so what!  There are so many amazing sausages, or salumi, as well as fantastic pizza, one gets over their craving for peperoni pizza pretty fast.

The bigger issue comes when you need to use a new basic product.  In this case, flour. There are not many things I miss from home, but sourdough bread, bagels and American style cakes belong to that special category of "damn I wish I had some...!" So, for the next few weeks...or months, I am going to embark upon an adventure of trying to recreate American food products using Italian ingredients.  My first hurdle is going to be flour.  It never occurred to me that other than whole wheat versus white, there would be any significant differences from flour in the US to flour in Italy.  I could not have been more wrong, and on many levels.  American flour is typically hard wheat while Italian typically soft wheat.  American flour is labeled for it's designated use, general purpose, bread, cake etc, but here you can buy 0 or 00, Type 1, Type 2, farina integrale, and farina Manitoba 0 and 00.  0 and 00 are grades of texture, and compared to American flour is seems to be superfine and superfinest.  In a word, you better know what you're doing when you bake with Italian flour because it's not the same thing.

Also, there's no such thing as bleached flour or cake flour such as SoftasSilk.  There is a technique for bleaching flour using a microwave, but it is so labor intensive that until I decide I'm going to start baking wedding cakes for a living, I'll give it a pass.   Not to mention that I no longer own a microwave.

I have for years been a fan of Rose Levy Beranbaum and her book "The Cake Bible".  This is cake baking as a science!  When she published her new book "Rose's Heavenly Cakes"  I immediately purchased it from Amazon.com thinking I was going to return to the US for a quick trip and be able to pick it up, a trip that never happened.  So, not to be deprived, I immediately asked for another copy for Christmas, and gave my first copy to my daughter.  Which brings us back to flour.  The cakes in this extraordinary book use US style bleached cake flour and I really want to bake some of them.   I'll keep you posted on my efforts, but until I perfect the technique, I still have my fallback Italian apple cake with olive oil from Anna del Conte, which is as good as any cake I've ever eaten.

For the recipe for apple cake and other great Italian food from this wonderful writer, see http://www.amazon.co.uk/Amaretto-Apple-Cake-Artichokes-Conte/dp/product-description/0099494167.

9 comments:

  1. Have you heard of a cookery book called 'The Silver Spoon' It is the Italian bible of cooking and often given as a wedding gift. It was recently published in English in 2005 and I have found it very useful. I think you might find it interesting.
    It has received good reviews on Amazon.co.uk
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silver-Spoon-Various-Contributors/dp/0714844675/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1267027945&sr=1-1

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  2. Yes Lindy Lou, the book was given to me as a gift when it was first published in English. Got to say though, I don't think it compares with Anna del Conte's books. I find it comparable to The Joy of Cooking, basic how-to for the new cook except for the menus and recipes by the chefs. She is the doyenne of Italian cooking after Ada Boni. If I can figure out how to do it, I think I'll link my favorite Italian cookbooks

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  3. I think you'd have better luck finding a sausage similar to 'pepperoni' if you were down south. What kind of sausage do they put on pizza diavola up there?

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  4. We have bought many a sausage hoping to find pepperoni but none close yet!
    I have been struggling with the flour thing too!
    When I made the fastnachts last week I think I ended up using 2x the amount of flour the recipe called for.
    I think 0 flour is finer than our cake flour! But I recently made brownies which the recipe calls for cake flour and I used 00 and it was fine. Who knows!!

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  5. Would cake flour be flour with extra gluten added? Because that is available here, and it says on the label that it specifically for torte.

    I can get Sicilian spiced sausage which is similar to the American concept of peperoni -- it's available at some of the larger grocery stores. It is small and reddish in color. Not exactly the same, but close and very good. I think you might be able to find it at your larger grocery stores (like that mostrous ipercoop down aways from IKEA).

    I do well using 00 for most of my cake recipe from America.

    After 16 years of living in Europe, I have come up with a substitute almost everything I was used to from the states. :)

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  6. Diana, cake flour has less gluten than other flours. The problem isn't the gluten in this case, but the fact that the flour isn't bleached. The bleaching process affects the way the fat molecules are absorbed by the carb molecules.

    I'm going to check out that ipercoop. I usually shop in the one downtown, but I'm going to head out that way next week.

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  7. Mary,
    Ciao from Ovada (about 25 minutes from Genova). My wife and I are just retired from the restaurant business in the U.S. We've been coming to Ovada for more than 20 years and finally made it full time. For pepperoni, go to any decent salumeria and ask for salami calabrese. It will make you smile, I promise. We have a wood oven in our kitchen and make pizza regularly. Come up to Ovada some time and you can have a pepperoni pizza (extra sauce-extra cheese) with us.

    salute - david

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  8. hi David,

    Thanks for that tip. Believe it or not, I've overcome my lust for pepperoni pizza, which doesn't mean that I won't take you up on your offer sometime:) and congratulations on your move. Hope you love living here full-time as much as we do.

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  9. Ciao, Mary
    Except for the lousy weather, I can't think of a better way to spend a Sunday than eating anlot ante'vein (homemade ravioli floating in a bowl of Dolcetto di Ovada). See you sometime.

    d

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